The Torchbearer

Sidebar: Mechanical Matters

Thinking about buying a vintage Corvette? Need a few pointers about maintaining an older car? Kevin Ferguson is a factory-trained master technician, and prior to that he apprenticed at a frame, brake, and wheel shop, sorting out a variety of chassis issues. Plus he’s owned and restored an impressive array of cars over the years, as noted previously. So he has plenty of practical, hands-on tips for anyone looking to acquire and/or restore an early Corvette. While some of these pointers may be fairly familiar to long-time car enthusiasts, a few reminders can’t hurt, especially when faced with an impulse buy. His fundamental recommendation?
“A chassis inspection is very important prior to your purchase,” he advises. “Through the years of my experience in automobile dealerships, I have seen so many cars that should not be on the road.”
If you don’t have the luxury of a hoist, at least use a floor jack—along with jack stands, of course—to get under the car. “The early Corvettes have kingpins, so definitely check for any unwanted play and looseness on the idler arm, Pitman arm, and all tie-rod ends,” he notes. While you’re at it, the steering box should be examined as well. All of which should give you a general condition of the suspension and how well the car was maintained.
As you’re doing your inspection, look for oil leaks, including how much oil has sprayed toward the rear of the car and burned onto the exhaust. Look for signs of frame rust, too. All of these items can help in the evaluation of your potential purchases. Next, Ferguson likes to check out the ignition system.
“These cars came with ignition points, and some Chevys have two sets of them inside the distributor,” he points out. “Many people today are not familiar with setting up points with a dwell meter.”
Dwell, you ask? “Dwell is the length of time the ignition points are closed,” Ferguson explains. “Normally in a Chevrolet distributor, dwell is set at 28 to 32 degrees, on either a cold or hot engine. Always set dwell prior to setting ignition timing, since dwell does affect timing.” He prefers an analog meter because it doesn’t jump around and is easier to read with aging eyes.
Speaking of how things look, Ferguson wisely observes that, “Purchasing an older car should be done with thought—not how much you like how it looks. Though, of course, that does come into play.” When examining the body, he carefully inspects the fitment of the doors, hood, and trunk. He then does it a second time to make sure he didn’t miss a flaw that might indicate a bigger issue. “Inspect the seal condition, along with latches, and any color
variations where a repair might have been done,” he says.
Besides the ignition system already mentioned, look again for oil or coolant leaks in the engine bay. Examine the brake-fluid color, and pull the dipstick and oil-filler cap for signs of moisture in the crankcase. Remove the radiator cap and inspect both the coolant color and the condition of the seal on the cap. In addition, see if there’s anything that shouldn’t be in the cooling system. “I often have seen large amounts of radiator sealant sitting inside the radiator, looking like sludge,” Ferguson recalls with a wince.
Another telltale trouble sign is the weep hole on the water pump, which can show signs of fluid loss, along with the condition of the rubber hoses. “Grab the cooling fan and try to wobble it back and forth,” he recommends. “This will let you know if the bearings are shot.” If the transmission is an automatic, pull out the dipstick and look at the color, and smell the fluid for a possible burnt odor.
For older Corvettes with mechanical fuel injection, the high system pressure can cause small leaks to become major problems as the atomized fuel sprays out. This spray can turn a classic into a fireball in just seconds, so inspect all of the fuel lines and fittings for leaks on a regular basis. Pay particular attention to flexible rubber lines. If in doubt, replace these lines with new ones that are rated for fuel injection. Do not use low-pressure fuel lines on an injected car, and always use top-quality hose clamps that do not cut into the rubber as they are tightened.
Keep your fuel clean by replacing fuel filters on a regular basis. The high pressure of the FI system can quickly clog a filter if there is any crud in the gas tank. If your tank has any rust on the inside, get it flushed and treated before you drive the car.
Finally, get your injectors cleaned and blueprinted by a professional. As with a clean set of properly sized carburetor jets, injectors are crucial to performance. Dirt and varnish can cause a clog, altering the spray pattern or blocking it altogether.
Only after Ferguson has completed this entire process does he start the engine and look for smoke coming out the exhaust. He listens for any unusual noises as well, and checks the operation of the gauges. “After the car warms up, if possible, feel the radiator for any cool spots,” he suggests. They indicate whether coolant is circulating throughout, and a cool spot says no fluid is passing through. “Then road-test the vehicle for basic drivability, braking, steering, transmission, clutch operation, and body roll.”
Now you can decide if you want the car—and, depending on what you found during your inspection, perhaps negotiate a better price. “None of the items that I mentioned guarantee that the car will run a long time,” Ferguson admits. “Remember, these are machines, and machines break. If they didn’t, I wouldn’t have had a career fixing them.”